How to Raise an Axolotl as a Pet

Axolotls (Ambystoma mexicanum) are not just pets—they’re one of nature’s marvels, combining a “forever young” aquatic lifestyle with supernatural regenerative powers. In this guide, you’ll learn about legal requirements, ideal tank setups, precise diet, and the science-backed tips for keeping your axolotl happy, healthy, and captivating for 10–15 years or more.

Quick Start Card

• Tank Size: At least 29–40 gallons (long not tall)
• Temperature: 59–68 °F (15–20 °C; avoid >68 °F/20 °C)
• Diet: Earthworms (main), axolotl pellets, occasional bloodworms
• Handling: Strictly “look, don’t touch”—only handle in emergencies
• Legality: Illegal in CA, NJ, ME, DC. Permits or registration needed in HI, NM, AR

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Axolotl (Species, Temperament & Legality)

What Is an Axolotl? (Neoteny, Biology & Regeneration)

Axolotls, sometimes called “Mexican walking fish,” are in fact neotenic salamanders—they remain in their aquatic, “baby” form for life and never undergo metamorphosis. This rare trait means:

• External gills: Trademark feathery gills on either side of the head
• Regeneration: Can regrow limbs, spinal cord, even heart and brain tissue without scarring—usually in 4–8 weeks
• In the wild: Found only in Lake Xochimilco, Mexico City, and critically endangered due to habitat destruction and pollution (likely <1,200 remain)

Behavior & Temperament (Observation, Handling, Cannibalism)

• Personality: Solitary, watchful, mostly sedentary
• Handling: Avoid except for emergencies—skin & gills are very sensitive
• Aggression: Juveniles are cannibalistic; adults may injure tankmates if crowded

Is It Legal in Your State? (2025 U.S. Law Update)

• Illegal: California, Maine, New Jersey, and Washington D.C.—fines, confiscations, and severe penalties
• Permits Needed: Hawaii, New Mexico
• Registration: Arkansas—owner registration required by law.
• Check your state’s wildlife or exotic pet regulations before obtaining an axolotl and keep documentation on hand.

Cost of Ownership (Realistic U.S. Budget)

• Purchase price: $60–$80 (common types); $200–$400+ (rare color morphs)
• Initial tank setup: $300–$700 (tank, chiller/fan, strong filter, test kits, hides, sand, thermometer, conditioner, decorations)
• Recurring costs: $10–$40/month (food, water conditioners, testing materials, electricity)
• Emergency/vet care: Can be significant—find a local exotics vet before you need one

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Tank Setup Step-by-Step (With Safe Water Parameters)

Recommended Tank Size & Shape

Prefer 29–40+ gallons per axolotl, long-style tanks for more floor space (not tall or bowl-shaped!). Roomy tanks promote stable water quality and reduce stress/aggression as they age.

Substrate Choices

• Bare-bottom: Safest for beginners—easy waste removal, zero impaction risk.
• Sand (fine, <1mm): Best for axolotls over 6” long—provides traction and is passable if swallowed (never use gravel or pebbles, which can cause fatal impaction).
• Slate tiles: Some keepers use these for grip, safety, and easy cleaning.

Filtration & Flow (Best Options in 2025)

• Gentle filtration: Sponge filters or well-baffled hang-on-back/canister filters; axolotls dislike strong currents, so always break up/baffle the outflow.
• Always use a lid—axolotls can and do jump!

Temperature Control

• Keep water always between 59–68 °F (15–20 °C). Lower end (60–65 °F) is safest for long-term health; never let water exceed 68 °F.
• Use fans, chillers, room A/C, or frozen bottles for cooling in hot weather.
• No heaters—axolotls are cold-water amphibians and overheat easily.

Cycling Your Aquarium (Water Chemistry Essentials)

• Cycle tank for 4–8 weeks before adding your axolotl—allows beneficial bacteria to convert toxic ammonia (NH₃/NH₄⁺) into nitrite (NO₂⁻), and then into relatively safe nitrate (NO₃⁻).
• Target water parameters:
  • Ammonia: 0 ppm
  • Nitrite: 0 ppm
  • Nitrate: <20 ppm (40 ppm max, but best ≤20)
  • pH: 6.5–8.0, ideal 7.4–7.6
• Weekly water testing is absolutely essential—use liquid tests, not strips, for accuracy.

Decor & Enrichment

• Provide at least 2–3 hides (PVC, ceramic caves, flowerpots)
• Safe live plants: Anubias, Java fern, Java moss—also help absorb nitrate
• Minimal, dim lighting (axolotls have no eyelids and are light-sensitive)
• Rearranging decor every month provides natural “enrichment”

Weekly Maintenance

• Replace 20–30% of tank water with dechlorinated, temp-matched water weekly
• Daily: remove uneaten food or waste using a siphon/turkey baster
• Clean filter media in tank water only (never tap)

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Feeding Axolotls the Right Way

Staple Diet

• Best main food: Earthworms/nightcrawlers (robust protein, calcium, and perfect Ca:P ratio)
• Secondary: Sinking axolotl/carnivore pellets (Hikari, Northfin, etc., 45% protein or higher)
• Treats: Bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, Repashy gel food, soft chopped white worms

Feeding Schedule by Age/Size

• Hatchlings (<2 in): 2–4× per day (baby brine shrimp/daphnia)
• Juveniles (2–6 in): Every other day or daily; chopped worms and pellets
• Subadults/adults (>6 in): 2–3× per week (1–2 large worms or equivalent in pellets)
• Moderator note: Adult axolotls can be overfed (obesity causes health issues)—belly should be gently rounded, not bloated.

Treats vs. “Do-Not-Feed”

• Safe treats: Bloodworms, blackworms (occasionally, not as staples), ghost shrimp (must quarantine)
• Never feed: Goldfish, feeder fish (parasites, thiaminase), raw meat/poultry, live insects (unless diet-approved), fatty foods

Feeding Technique & Hygiene

• Always use feeding tongs or forceps for precision; it keeps food out of the substrate.
• Remove uneaten food after 10–15 minutes to prevent water fouling
• Pause filter during feeding to avoid food flying everywhere

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Health & Troubleshooting

Normal vs Abnormal Behaviors

• Normal: Resting on the bottom, slowly exploring, “firing up” (gills turn bright, body darkens with excitement)
• Abnormal: Floating, darting, excessive hiding, refusal to eat, shrunken gills, curled tail tip—immediate water testing required

Water-Quality Issues

• Most illnesses arise from water problems (NH₃, NO₂⁻, NO₃⁻, temp).
• Symptoms: Lethargy, fungus, gill damage, floating—immediately start partial water changes and correct parameters

Common Conditions

• Impaction: Most commonly from ingesting gravel. Floaty, off food, distended—remove substrate and consult a vet.
• Fungal infections: White, cottony growths—urgent care needed; consult vet for salt bath/medical treatment.
• Gill loss, ulcers: Primarily water/temperature stress or tankmate nipping

When to Call an Exotics Vet

Not eating for one week, persistent floating/listing, ulcers, loss of body parts not regenerating, red/inflamed gills

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Tankmates & Cohabitation (Cautions in 2025)

Why Solo Is Safest

• Axolotls are naturally solitary and happiest alone.
• Groups are only possible in ultra-large, meticulously maintained tanks, with individuals of similar size and ample hides. Even then, nipping and separation are common.

Shrimp as Cleanup/Enrichment

Ghost or cherry shrimp may be used as scavengers—but quarantine >30 days first. Many will get eaten and shouldn’t be a staple.

Juvenile Cannibalism & Breeding Risks

• Juvenile and subadult axolotls are highly cannibalistic; only house together if same size and very well-fed.
• Breeding requires major prep—females may lay hundreds of eggs, and adults often eat the spawn if left in the tank.